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2022

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10

Identification method for appearance quality of textile fabrics


The identification knowledge of textile fabric appearance quality is introduced in detail from front and back identification, reverse wool identification, defect identification, weft skew identification and its correction.
1、 Front and back identification
Among all kinds of textile fabrics, it is difficult to distinguish the positive and negative sides of some fabrics. A little neglect in the process of garment sewing can easily lead to mistakes, such as uneven color and pattern, and even obvious color difference, unclear pattern, and fabric inversion, which will affect the appearance of the garment. In addition to the sensory methods of seeing and touching, the positive and negative aspects of fabric identification can also be identified from the fabric's organizational structure characteristics, pattern and color characteristics, the special effect of the appearance after special finishing, as well as from the fabric's trademark stickers and seals.
1. Identification according to fabric structure
(l) Plain weave fabric: It is difficult to identify the front and back of plain weave fabric, so there is no difference between the front and back in practice (except for printed fabric). The front surface of plain weave fabric is smooth and clean, and the color is uniform and bright.
(2) Twill fabric: Twill weave is divided into single side twill and double side twill. The lines of the single side twill are clear and obvious on the front, but vague on the reverse. In addition, in terms of grain inclination, the front grain of single yarn fabric is inclined from top left to bottom right, and the grain of half thread fabric or full thread fabric is inclined from bottom left to top right. The front and back grain of double faced twill are basically the same, but the oblique direction is opposite.
(3) Satin fabric: because the front warp or weft of the satin fabric float out of the cloth surface more, the cloth surface is flat, tight and shiny. The lines on the reverse side are like plain and twill, and the luster is relatively dim.
In addition, there are more warp floats on the front of warp twill and warp satin, and more weft floats on the front of weft twill and weft satin.
2. Identify according to fabric pattern and color
The patterns and patterns on the front of various fabrics are clear and clean, and the shape and line outline of the patterns are fine and obvious, with clear layers and bright and vivid colors; On the reverse side, the color is lighter than on the front side, the line outline is more vague, the pattern lacks layers, and the luster is also darker.
3. Identify according to fabric texture changes and patterns
Jacquard, jacquard and sliver fabrics have many variations in weave patterns. Generally, there are few floating yarns on the front of all woven patterns, and the stripes, lattices and patterns proposed are more obvious than the reverse, and the lines are clear, the outline is prominent, the color is uniform, and the light is bright and soft; On the reverse side, the pattern is vague, the outline is unclear, and the color is dark. There are also some jacquard fabrics with unique patterns on the reverse, and the color is harmonious and quiet. Therefore, the reverse is used as the positive material when making clothes. As long as the fabric yarn structure is reasonable, floating length is uniform, and the use fastness is not affected, the reverse side can also be used as the front side.
4. Identify according to fabric edge
In general, the fabric edge on the front side is flat and straight compared with the reverse side, and the edge on the reverse side curls inward. For fabrics woven on shuttleless looms, the fabric edge on the front side is relatively flat, and it is easy to find the tufts of weft yarn on the back edge. Some high-grade fabrics. Such as woolen cloth. There are characters or other characters woven on the edge of the fabric On the other hand, the codes or characters on the front are clear, obvious and smooth; The character code or text on the reverse side is relatively vague, and the font is reversed.
5. Identification according to the appearance effect after special finishing of fabrics
(1) Fleece fabric: The dense plush stands on the front of the fabric The reverse side is villous tissue. The ground tissue is obvious, such as plush, velvet, velveteen, corduroy, etc. Some fabrics have dense fluff, and even the texture of the ground weave is difficult to see.
(2) Burnout fabric: the front of the pattern after chemical treatment is clear, layered, and bright in color. If the fleece is burnt out, the fleece is plump and even, such as burnt out silk, georgette, etc.

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